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Competition Hammer Installation. A.K.A. Descent into madness.

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Well, after 3 hours of slaving with punches and files, and hammers, and little bitty springs you can barely pick up with your fingers, I managed to install my competition hammer and everything is working fine. Let me tell you it was a freaking nightmare, but I HAD to do it myself.
Sorry for the quality, I took the pic with my phone.
Let me tell you, if you embark on this journey of madness like I did, I have some tips.
Tools you'll need:
1/16th inch prick punch
1/16th pin punch
3/32 pin punch
3 inch C-clamp
Something really solid to hammer onto to flush punch the pins. I suggest a small anvil, steel plate, or something of the like.
A piece of 2x4
A Phillips head screwdriver
An 8 inch B.a.s.t.a.r.d file to trim the safety leg.
A hammer. (I used a 3lb sledge)
Needle nose pliers.
The exploded view of the pistol.
This Video: It walks you through most of the things you'll have to disassemble for this build.
This video shows the actual process:
Step 1. Take the phillips head screwdriver and beat it into the 2x4 until you have a hole at least 1.5 inches deep. Remove the screwdriver. This will be your punch block. You'll position the hammer assembly pins over the holes to drive them out.
Step 2. Disassemble your pistol as shown in the video. Remove the hammer assembly and start punching out the pins over the hole in the 2x4 using the prick punch, then finish driving them through with the solid punch, and noting the orientation of the hammer strut and disconnector for reassembly. (If you drive it into the wood a bit, its ok, I did it too. Just wiggle it around with a punch or the needle nose pliers until it comes out.)
Step 3. Reassembly of the hammer assembly. (That sounds odd. Lol.) Take a deep breath, because this is a frustrating bit. Lay your competition hammer on your anvil, metal plate, ect. (The bit of 2x4 wont really work, you'll end up driving your competition hammer into the wood. Trust me, I did this the hard way.) Using your hammer and needle nose pliers, tap one pin into the side of the hammer until it will stay by itself. Oh, after about the 100th try, you'll actually get it in straight. Now, use your C-clamp and position the part so that the pin is down and centered and the hammer is on the upper side where the screw of the clamp comes down. Press the pin in SLOWLY until you see it become flush to the inside of the hammer. Insert the strut or disconnector into the proper side and press the pin in until its almost flush on the far side of the hammer. Repeat for the other part.
Step 4. Put the hammer assembly back into your pistol.
Step 5. Disassemble the sear. Just push out the pin in the middle with your 3/32nds solid punch, and leave the punch in the sear. OMG! BE VERY CAREFUL WHILE DOING THIS! There is a super tiny spring under pressure inside the sear, and it will fly out. There are 2 springs in the sear, one you can see, and one you can't. The one you can't see is the one under pressure. Place your thumb over the top of the sear and slowly remove the 3/32nds punch. This will release the pressure on the spring, but still, be very VERY careful. Now, grab your file, you've got some work to do.
Step 6. Filing! The picture below will explain what part needs filing, and what parts you DON'T need to touch.

Step 7. Reassembling the sear! Oh, by the way, reassembling the sear is pretty difficult. Make sure you look at the orientation of the tiny little spring on the exploded view of the pistol that was provided above.  You have to make sure that the part the spring holds in place can be moved and returns to its original position. If it doesn't then you did it WRONG WRONG WRONG! Take the time to study it during disassembly so that you don't screw it up when you're putting it back together. Just reassemble the sear in the same fashion that you took it apart, the only really hard part is getting that little spring back under tension and in place.
Ok, after you've filed the safety leg down sufficiently, put the sear back together, and reassembled your weapon as shown in the Reassembly portion of the video listed above, there you have your competition hammer installed with no need to pay a gunsmith possibly a $100+ to do what you can do yourself. This is the exact way that I did my own hammer installation. IDK why czcustoms doesn't sell pre-assembled competition hammer assemblies, and even modified sears. Sheesh, it'd save them a lot of trouble and turn around time in the shop. I hope you enjoyed my little tutorial for installing the competition hammer on the CZ 75 SP-01 Pistol. God knows it was 3 hours of hell on earth for me.

OK then, I think I'll pass on any do it myself gunsmithing. It looks like a pain in the butt and it looks like it would be a very shiny thing to do or at least try. Not sure I am ready for that but then the more I think on it the more it seems like part of me says "Go on! Give it a go!" The other part is whimpering in the back ground.

Still thanks for the blow by blow, pun intended, and the effort you put it doing it not only for yourself but for the rest of us also.

I think that if I do another one of these any time soon, I'm just going to order the parts and build a hammer assembly. That way I don't have to take it apart first, that took a while to persuade those pins to budge. I'm all about passing on information and what I learned. I think that next time it would take considerably less time, because I know how to do it. There was a lot, a LOT of trial and error in there, I just happened to think about pressing in the pins with a C-clamp, I didn't read about that anywhere. I figured it would do it slowly so I could put in the parts then press on through, and I was right. Also, since I know how to disassemble the sear and modify it, that would take a lot less time. By the way, if you have a small vice, and a dremel tool, that'll help with modifying the safety leg. Holding it in your hand and filing it sucks and takes forever. Of course you have to do it little by little and keep refitting/reassembling because you want the tolerances to be tight. I had been considering going to school for gunsmithing anyway, this just shows you what you go through if you don't have the proper training and only some of the tools. I actually made my own 1/16th prick punch by filing down the tip on a 1/16th solid punch. You really need a sharp tip to dig into those pins and not mushroom the head. That all being said, it was very frustrating, but I have a distinct sense of pride, because I did it myself, and saved money. Thats also why I put that tutorial up, so other people could see it and know what tools they need, and how to proceed, because a lot of the information isnt out there just for the taking. I had to glean bits of the process from like 5 different sources just for myself.

Well how does it shoot?

Like a freaking dream! I was just messing around at the range last friday and unloaded as fast I could and dumped all 18 rounds in a 7 inch group from 10 yards. Since theres so little trigger to squeeze on SA it shoots sooooooooo dang fast it almost sounds full auto. I bet if I really wanted to I could bump fire it like a 1911.


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