Author Topic: Easy-Peasy (Step-By-Step) DIY Short Reset Trigger Job, CZ97BD (& RAMI BD)  (Read 2406 times)

Offline PappaWheelie

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Being pleased with the result of installing CGW’s $38 1485-T2 Disconnector in my peerless CC pistol, the CZ 2075 RAMI BD, http://www.czforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=5442.msg22980#msg22980
-I decided Homeboy CZ97BD should get the same upgrade.
And because (after enjoying several satisfying and successful trigger job experiences installing CGW’s excellent $72 SRS-2 Short Reset System, including their $7 RP-TRS Reduced Power Trigger Return Spring, their $35 5 Thick Trigger, and their $13 TR-PIN Floating Trigger Pin) the DIY trigger job process was starting to seem exceedingly straightforward, I decided to jot down the chronological steps involved so that folks like Hero Member CZ-RAMI-2075 (from whom I nabbed part of this Post’s title) and others might be encouraged. You can enjoy both a delightfully light trigger AND the satisfaction that “if you want something done right do it yourself” type thinking can bring. Helping PeachBoy son do his first CGW-based trigger job
http://www.czforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=5438.msg22962#msg22962
 confirmed the usefulness of the shortcut method of swapping out the 14 Firing Pin Block Lever (vs. full sear cage disassembly/reassembly), as outlined in my 2nd trigger job http://www.czforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=5057.msg21330%23msg21330
-a change that transforms a fairly fussy, intricate watchmaker’s apprentice type job into an “anyone can do it” (Wifey included) type job.
The result of installing the 1485 Disco in an already Short Reset System-upgraded pistol is the reduction in the amount of do-nothing light effort trigger travel (or “play”) between the forwardmost Single Action trigger position (or FMSATP for short) and the actual start of Single Action. In the case of my RAMI, it was an impressive 10.6mm, the difference between the original 11.9mm (!) and the final 1.3mm.
In the case of Homeboy, the change was less dramatic in terms of play reduction, (5.5mm) but nearly identical in terms of final play magnitude (1.4mm). In both cases the beginning of DA trigger position moved rearward slightly (1mm RAMI, 0.6mm 97).
DA Trigger Position:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OneEy-FsjtvgmJRkptbxKDhzlJoc31wI
SA Trigger Position Before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HZEwCX6B8y8AMSKOe50Kg3okZAwwZCf2
SA Trigger Position After:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=178Mg2jA01_9lHM1ZEdcMu1561tnrwrb4
Decocked Trigger Position Before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aLdSK5b9UK0tIYzLVprwn9N0dwkWq5dO
Decocked Trigger Position After:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1p_Mif1RPuB6JpkmeNEeh81bQc_Ht3_CN
Step-By-Step Process:
Tools needed; Torx T20 screwdriver, Ø2mm, Ø2.5mm, and Ø3mm punches (I recommend Wiha for excellent quality); a tack hammer; a dental pick, safety pin, or the like; and tweezers (optional but helpful).  I use a 2X12X16? discard plank, having a Ø1/8” X ¾” deep hole to accept the protruding sear cage pin (the cardboard core of a roll of tape can substitute), with a folded towel underneath to protect the tabletop and cushion the tack hammer shocks.  I also utilize a magnifying lens/lamp, with 60W LED to avoid the “heat in the kitchen” problem with close work, but this equipment is also optional; nice to have but not necessary. Also highly recommended, CGW’s  INST-DC Decocker Installation Kit https://cajungunworks.com/product/inst-dc-dcer-install-kit/ which includes a high quality SP Starter Punch and their sear cage assembly dummy pin S-pin Decocker Slave Pin (that I’ll be calling “sear cage dummy pin”).
Online Parts Diagram:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1uUtNkR9S8SJKF6lzm_sR3A01pDy-m0Pu
Online Parts List:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iBqXbUxVAkf9lgjeWvzoSks9fAzFcG6L
1) Unload the pistol by dropping the magazine and racking the chamber to assure it is empty, keeping your finger off the trigger and aiming towards safe directions at all times.
2 Measure “before” trigger positions if desired.
3) Remove 2 Slide Stop (requires 36 Magazine Body removal per Step 1).
4) Remove 44 Slide (forwardly translation with respect to 1 Frame), unscrew 64 Barrel Bushing, remove Recoil Spring and Barrel.
5) Remove both 28 Grip Panel Screws (Torx T20 bit) and 26, 27 Grip Panels to expose 23 Main Spring Plug Pin.
6) Increase the bend magnitude of 24 Magazine Guide (or “magazine brake”) to either remove 25 Magazine Guide Pin, or disengage the central tang of the lower end of 24 Magazine Guide from the central groove of 22 Mainspring Plug.
7) Remove 22 Main Spring Plug by 1st pushing it upward towards (fully decocked) hammer slightly, to unload and thus enable removal of 23 Main Spring Plug Pin.
8) Remove 21 Main Spring from 20 Main Spring Strut
9) Using dental pick, safety pin, toothpick or the like, lift the forward hairpin leg of 12 Sear Spring enough to enable leftward movement of 60 Hammer Decocking Lever (hairpin spring leg’s engagement with a groove in the 60 Hammer Decocking Lever’s shaft is what maintains transverse location of same), then withdraw 60 Hammer Decocking Lever leftward.
10) Remove[1] 13 Sear Pin R to L using tack hammer tapping initially on your Ø2.5mm punch, then, after ~3mm of motion, the Ø2.7mm CGW Decocker Slave Pin (hereafter “sear cage dummy pin,” with rounded end leftward) directly, then after it comes flush with the outside RH face of the frame, in front of the punch until it (the dummy pin) is centered on the sear cage, which will then lift out effortlessly. Note, the dummy pin will face resistance near the end of this travel as it butts up against the inside wall of the sear cage b/c it is being biased off-axis by the two hairpin springs: looking through the sear pin hole from the left, use a finger or thumb to press downward (generally) on the sear cage assembly until you see the end of the dummy pin aligned with the hole in the sear cage wall. Finger pressure  on the Ø2.5mm punch will then be enough to advance the dummy pin to its “centered on the sear cage” sear cage removal depth.
11) Lift out the sear cage assembly.
12) Using your dental pick, safety pin, or sharp toothpick, push up on the bottom of 19 Hammer Pin Retaining Peg and it will effortlessly move up into the sear cage region where you can grab and remove it.
13) Remove the 18 Hammer Pin R to L (again, totally slip fit).
14) Lift out the hammer assembly (16 Hammer, 17 Disconnector, 20 Main Spring Strut, and their (2) 9 Pivot Pins)
15) Inspect the stakes on both ends of the 17 Disconnector’s 9 Pivot Pin to decide which direction to drive 9 Pivot Pin mostly out until the 17 Disconnector can just be replaced with the CGW 1485-T2 Disconnector. The pivot pin is ~2.2mm diameter, so you’ll use your Ø2.0mm punch to recess it. You can either simply drive it in into your support board, or drive it into a pre-drilled hole.
16) Orient the Main Spring Strut to align with a line between the two Pivot Pins to help it lay flat against your anvil board, start recessing the Disconnector’s Pivot Pin with either your Starter Punch or your carefully centered before each blow Ø2.0mm punch.
17) Continue, with ever-decreasing tap magnitude, until the Disconnector just frees up enough for removal.
18) Lube the hole of the new 1485-T2 Disco and reinstall the Pivot Pin, until flush or just below flush on both sides. I’ve been using Weapon Shield since seeing it demonstrate ~100X higher Extreme Pressure (~9X load on 1/12 the bearing area) load-bearing capacity than competitive lubes in this vid: https://youtu.be/lcBu6q61G3M   
19)
If you’re doing a from-scratch trigger job, this is where you’ll polish the sear-engaging Single Action face of your hammer tooth, replace the trigger return spring, install the CGW floating trigger pin, trigger, trigger return spring, etc. per http://www.czforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=4798.msg20513#msg20513 and replace the firing block lifter lever without having to go through a full sear cage assembly breakdown and reassembly per http://www.czforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=5057.msg21330#msg21330 as opposed to the much more tedious, fussy, and potentially frustrating full disassembly /reassembly as detailed by the (excellent) NCGunowners.com link labeled on the CGW website as Tutorial for Decocker 97, which is actually titled Ongoing review – CZ SP-01 Tactical and walks you through, with excellent photos, the process with the CZ 75 SP-01 Tactical (i.e., the Decocker version), which is quite similar (or identical in terms of Decocker) to the CZ 97 BD. Briefly, in this shortcut method, the firing pin block lifter lever (hereafter FPBLL) is replaced by first pushing the dummy sear cage pin R to L approximately 4mm, or just enough to free up the stock FPBLL for upward extraction, and from-the-top replacement with the CGW Short Reset FPBLL (lube its bore 1st) before pushing the dummy pin back ~2mm rightward until the FPBLL is well-captured on the dummy pin but a tiny gap beyond the end of the dummy pin still remains whereby the 15 FPBLL Spring can be dropped from above (tweezers ideally) then pulled down into place (where the dummy pin can engage it by its bore)with a toothpick or whatever reaching through the sear pin bore in the RH wall of the sear cage. After pressing the dummy pin on further rightward to engage the RH wall pin bore (look into the bore, press down on the sear cage assembly against biasing force of the inside-the-sear hairpin springs to align the dummy pin end with the pin bore), push the final couple of millimeters to center the dummy pin on the sear cage’s width. Finally, use a dental pick or safety pin to lift the rear leg of the FPBLL Spring enough to engage the dovetail groove that forms its home in the side of the FPBLL. Verify free, lightly-biased normal operation of the FPBLL.
20)
If you’re doing a from-scratch (i.e., as compared to Disco only replacement as I was doing) trigger job including upgrade to CGW’s excellent blunt-tipped Argent–finished 5 Thick Trigger, you’ll punch out the 6 Trigger Pin, initially dislodging it using the CGW SP Starter Punch from its rivet-like staked home position (in either direction), then following through with your Ø2.5mm punch once it is recessed sufficiently for the centering of same.       
21) Lift out the Trigger/Trigger Bar vertically after freeing the latter from its trigger bar guide shelf feature of 1 Frame.
22) Also (if you’re doing a from-scratch trigger job), inspect the (sear lever-contacting) LH vertical (rear-facing) face of the trigger bar, which if not flat will introduce nonlinearity in the trigger pull force curve, and polish it flat if needed.
23) The CGW Reduced Power Trigger Spring (hereafter RPTS) is easily assembled by first installing it to the Trigger with the short dummy Trigger Pin that CGW ships with their TR-PIN Floating Trigger Pin, then (after getting the rear of the Trigger Bar under the trigger bar guide shelf of 1 Frame) pushing the Trigger down into location with the legs of the RPTP straddling the transverse edge just forward of the Trigger Pin bores until you can see that the dummy pin is concentric with the Trigger Pin bores whence you can simply use the Floating Trigger Pin to push the short dummy Trigger Pin out (either side) of the Frame. The RPTS holds the Floating Trigger Pin centered by engaging the reduced diameter “groove” in its midsection.
24) Before reassembling it to the frame, take a look with a jewelers loupe, preferably, at the hammer-interface area of the sear to assure that it is smooth and free from micro-burrs on its lower edge in the vicinity of hammer tooth contact, which is evidenced by the localized wear pattern.         
25) Drop the Hammer/Main Spring Strut/Disco assembly into place until pivot pin bores align, and reinstall 18 Hammer Pin L to R.
26) Reinstall 19 Hammer Pin Retaining Peg in its sear cage region hole: tweezers are handy for this.
27) Drop the sear cage assembly into place and press it down with a finger until you can see the end of the sear cage dummy pin centered on the sear pin hole of the Frame.
28) Orient the 13 Sear Pin with its rounded OD end to the right then install it L to R, pushing the sear cage dummy pin out ahead (resist dummy pin's advance with a finger lest it shoot on too far ahead due to the impacts, opening a gap with the advancing Sear Pin and losing its piloting function): finally, tap on the slightly domed end face  of the Sear Pin to seat it firmly to its choke hole in the RH wall of the Frame.
29) Verify free rotation of the 14 Firing Pin Block Lever, the 61 Decocking Lever, and of course the 11 Sear. If needed, lift the rearmost leg of 15 Firing Pin Block Lever Spring into the face groove of 14 Firing Pin Block Lever with a dental pick or the like, and assure that it (the FPBL) still freely snaps to its rotated-rearward (CCW, viewed from the Right) resting place.
30) Replace the Decocking lever, wiggling it angularly as it advances transversely, and finally depressing the cam follower surface of 61 Decocking Lever to enable 60 Hammer Decocking Lever to pass over and thus engage same.
31) (assuming, again, from-scratch trigger job using CGW Short Reset System):
Tap out the 57 Firing Pin Coiled Pin with your Ø3mm punch, supporting the 44 Slide with Barrel Bushing by your pre-drilled workboard or cardboard sleeve of 1” wide tape or such.
32) Remove stock 54 Firing Pin and 55 Firing Pin Spring, consider slightly rounding the forward edge of the Firing Pin notch of the new CGW Extended Firing Pin to mitigate its ability to bite into the Firing Pin Retaining Pin.
33) Consider replacement of 59 Firing Pin Block Stop Spring with CGW-provided replacement (Note: my experience with the CGW FPBSS is that its OD interferes with its bore to such an extent as to shorten, by friction, its working length, effectively increasing its spring rate and additionally reducing its travel capacity. As such, I’ve elected to retain the stock CZ FPBSS, which maintains slip fit clearance in its bore. Pistol machining tolerances and consequent part-to-part variations make this a subject of case-by-case evaluation).
34) Clean firing pin bore of Slide, and relube both Firing Pin and bore with a film of grease before installing CGW Firing Pin Spring and (softened notch corner modified?) Extended Firing Pin, using 58 Firing Pin Block Stop to compress 59 FPBSS and hold, upon its release, the compression of the FPBSS and location of the EFP.
35) Using 3mm punch inserted to enable maintenance of axial location and angular orientation of Firing Pin, push Firing Pin to beyond flush with back (Hammer) face of Slide, insert punch, push punch out with Sear Cage Dummy Pin to maintain Firing Pin Spring compression and Firing Pin angular and axial location, then install CGW Firing Pin Retaining Pin with gap oriented upwardly (suggestion; coat Retaining Pin and entrance of Pin bore with Anti-Seize Compound to facilitate insertion), resisting the advance of the dummy pin with a finger to maintain zero gap with the advancing end of the FPRP until the FPRP is transversely centered in Slide.
36) Install new blue CGW "self defense" main spring to the Main Spring Strut, reinstall the 22 Main Spring Plug and, compressing the main spring (Hammer fully decocked) with same, insert the 23 Main Spring Plug Pin until centered with the frame.
37) Engage the central tang of the bottom of the magazine brake (25 Magazine Guide) with the groove in the front of the Main Spring Plug, compress the Plug to open a gap for the brake by the wedge faces of the Plug, push the brake downward fully then release the Plug to trap it.
38) Bend the brake slightly to enable installation of the 25 Magazine Guide Pin.
39) Reassemble both Grip Panels with the (Torx T20) 28 Grip Panel Screws.
40) Apply lube to all points of relative motion, reassemble Barrel to Slide, Recoil Spring to both, Barrel Bushing to Slide, Slide to Frame, align timing marks, and insert Slide Stop to complete the reassembly process. Verify proper functionality of all moving parts, always keeping barrel aimed in safe directions.
 

   
[1] The one difference between the steel-framed CZ 97 BD, (& the SP-01 Tactical), and the alloy-framed CZ 2075 RAMI BD is that the alloy-framed RAMI includes a small Belleville washer (63 Fixing Insert) in a vertical slot inside the frame’s LH wall (as a Sear Pin retention device vs. potential loosening due to thermal expansion). This washer is easily removed before this Step 10 with a ~Ø1mm probe, and then replaced after Step 30 with (ideally) tweezers to preliminarily place, and a small minus screwdriver to slide it back, into its final place, its small hole engaging and being located by the slightly domed end of the Sear Pin.
« Last Edit: January 27, 2018, 07:57:53 PM by PappaWheelie »
Member, Gun Owners of America
CC: CZ 2075 RAMI BD in PappaWheelie Invisible 15 Round RAMI Holster
Homeboy: CZ 97 BD, Underwood 45 Super 120 Grain Xtreme Defender ammo
UBG: CZ 75 SP-01 Tactical Urban Grey Suppressor-ready
-all w/ CGW Short Reset Kit/1485-T2 Disco, 5 "Thick" Trigger, polished SA tooth

Offline PappaWheelie

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If anyone ("Old Salt" or Newbie or anything in between) spots any mistakes that should be corrected please say so and I can edit, giving credit as appropriate. Thanks!

Best Concealed Carry Rig? http://www.czforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=5398.msg22795#msg22795   Note pic posting, 1/21/2018

Cool CZ75B (Double Action) CAD Animation:  https://i.imgur.com/hUGZe0u.gif  (Ctrl + to enlarge view)
« Last Edit: January 28, 2018, 09:41:12 PM by PappaWheelie »
Member, Gun Owners of America
CC: CZ 2075 RAMI BD in PappaWheelie Invisible 15 Round RAMI Holster
Homeboy: CZ 97 BD, Underwood 45 Super 120 Grain Xtreme Defender ammo
UBG: CZ 75 SP-01 Tactical Urban Grey Suppressor-ready
-all w/ CGW Short Reset Kit/1485-T2 Disco, 5 "Thick" Trigger, polished SA tooth

Offline CatsEye

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    • Music City Tactical Shooters
Great write up.  Thanks for posting.
Speed without accuracy is wasted ammo.
Accuracy without speed is wasted time.
ToddG

Online frgood

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Good stuff.

Now I hate you. I will have to get a RAMI just to do this. 


https://youtu.be/0hQeMT9sWx4?t=3m15s

Offline PappaWheelie

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  • "This is war, and in war, time is of the essence"
    • The Children's Bread
frgood: get your patience on - for some reason the RAMI BD (and certain other models, ahem...http://www.czforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=5271.0) seem to be scarce these days.


I got mine with a single phone call (John 3.27; 1Cor. 4.7; James 1.17; Rom. 8.32, 5.17), evidently undeserved (!) favor, but Homeboy and Suppressor-ready have taken a good bit longer.


I do sincerely believe that the RAMI BD is indeed THE best carry pistol on the market at any price, only to be beat if/when CZUB comes out with a 20mm wide frame 9mm by using CZ97 proportions scaled to 9mm http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=92719.msg707426#msg707426 and further that it will come to be your by-far favorite pistol, well worth the gruesome wait. No other pistol feels so right in the hand; RAMI's GOT IT, whatever IT is... http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=93502.msg716495#msg716495     http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=96439.msg748990#msg748990
« Last Edit: May 11, 2018, 11:56:29 AM by PappaWheelie »
Member, Gun Owners of America
CC: CZ 2075 RAMI BD in PappaWheelie Invisible 15 Round RAMI Holster
Homeboy: CZ 97 BD, Underwood 45 Super 120 Grain Xtreme Defender ammo
UBG: CZ 75 SP-01 Tactical Urban Grey Suppressor-ready
-all w/ CGW Short Reset Kit/1485-T2 Disco, 5 "Thick" Trigger, polished SA tooth

Offline PappaWheelie

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Re: Easy-Peasy (Step-By-Step) DIY Short Reset Trigger Job, CZ97BD (& RAMI BD)
« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2018, 07:09:34 PM »
Good stuff.
Now I hate you. I will have to get a RAMI just to do this. 
https://youtu.be/0hQeMT9sWx4?t=3m15s
Found this morning, frgood, new CZ 2075 RAMI BD on display in Berea KY for $650.00. They'll send it wherever for ~$25.00 including insurance.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_xfR_95g3yQADSKcGKQ_IWElK9NQw9tu
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=100248.msg783343#msg783343
« Last Edit: December 17, 2018, 07:12:08 PM by PappaWheelie »
Member, Gun Owners of America
CC: CZ 2075 RAMI BD in PappaWheelie Invisible 15 Round RAMI Holster
Homeboy: CZ 97 BD, Underwood 45 Super 120 Grain Xtreme Defender ammo
UBG: CZ 75 SP-01 Tactical Urban Grey Suppressor-ready
-all w/ CGW Short Reset Kit/1485-T2 Disco, 5 "Thick" Trigger, polished SA tooth