Custom Holster and Grip molds

[GhostWarrior]

     Ok here’s the thing. I have lists of lists of Holster Mfgs and Grip Mfgs all of which make a couple or 3 holsters or grips for certain CZ’s but not all and they all have different reasons for it. The main reason and it's a good one is that the molds for either are expensive with a Capital $. Since this morning or last night I believe when I read the Post from undrlord and I think someone else with the same type of problem I have been going through those lists and or calling around.   
      There is a guy within driving distance of me that said he will make any mold I want for a Meer $300.00 Per weapon. After I regained consciousness he had hung up and I went looking again. The problem is the fraking molds for either are in fact not cheap. So I went a different way I started looking for ways to make the molds myself of at least the weapons I own and send them to the Holster or Grip guys and then send the mold back when they are finished, and of course I would loan it to whomever needed it to have something made for themselves. So ok making a two part mold and then casting the weapon is about 2 to 3 hundred for materials but I should get 2 to 4 pistol molds from the raw materials I would/will need. Ok I can live with that since the price drops big time and I may even be able to rent them to Holster makers so they can/could do a “run” for that model.

     So ok Holsters are covered more or less, the part I do not know and can’t seem to get my head around is just what the grip guys need to make their grips? Would a mold of each set of original grips (front and back of course) work or do they actually NEED a mold of the Frame, the WHOLE frame or just the handle, grip part of the frame? I can’t seem to get a handle (pun was not intended but it is funny so it stays)  on their answers. I get different mumbled descriptions of what they need. Does ANYONE have a decent working idea of just what the grip Mfgs actually truly need? I could make molds of the actual original grips the same way I will make the Pistol molds, but if they need the Frame of the handle then I don’t see a way of doing that without striping the pistol down to the frame and making the cast that way, but the kicker is that it will be a pure unadulterated Biotch to clean the frame before I can reassemble the weapon. Anyone have any idea on how to make this dog hunt?

[Angryvikingman]

Making a mold costs about $50 bucks in materials. Just look up RTV silicon and mold making supplies. You can use plaster, just coat the gun lightly in some vaseline and give it 24 hours to set. Of course, you'd want to really hose out the gun afterward and lube it all up inside before making the mold. Or you can get the kydex holster making equipment off of knifekits.com. Presses, and kydex sheets are all on the site. YOu can even find tutorials on youtube for mold making and kydex forming.

[Vandelescrow]

I just joined this forum so am a bit late in my answer but, I make grips and to make the mold I use a 2 part putty simular to silly putty. Vaseline will keep the material from sticking but is not all that necessary on the gun because the putty I use turns in to rubber when set an clean up is easy.

For grips having a mold of the gun is necessary and what I would need is the lower frame up to any buttons on the slide in their fully down position (safety, slide release) and to aid in making the thickness of the grips to fit the customer, have the trigger included in the mold. Having a mold of the grip will help in speeding up the process of figuring out how to make them but is not completely necessary. On second thought, to aid in locating the screw holes, having the grips is pretty much needed.

[GhostWarrior]

OK as soon as I have both hands back in working order, I'll start making molds. Thanks for the info.

[GhostWarrior]

     Well I'm off to the races. Just finished, the first half of the first mold of a CZ 75 A. I'll know in 12 hours how it went, but what ever happens, this one was a definite learning experience.

     Then again getting everything out of what I used for the mold may be a proper challenge at least as far as getting everthing to come out at one time and in one piece. I really think the clay is going to seriously stick to the sides and bottom of the plastic Sterlilite box/case/tub, whatever it's called that I used.

     I'll let everyone know how it went, and just for grins and giggles I'll take pics of what happens from here on so we can all have a Holiday chuckle.

    The really extra special fun part of this adventure is/was the part where it said I could clean up everything with warm soap and water.  not so sure about that bit. Glad I left the screen drain trap over the drain, but it the pipes back up, my bride may well push me piece by piece down the drain pipe the clean them out. 

[Angryvikingman]

OMG I know how you feel. Thats how my wife is when my projects don't go the way I want.

[GhostWarrior]

       OK forget the pictures. A) I forgot to take them actually and if I had I have to wonder if I would even post them for fear of making people sick from laughing. Pretty sure I can make the pistol work again, but the mold is not ever going to be usable for anything other than possibly a door stop, A large, light blue rubber, heavy, somewhat expensive door stop.

       Pretty sure where I went wrong was not reading ALL the instructions on the Release Agent before using it and then pouring the second half of the mold. 

       So when, the pistol is clean and put back together again I'm going to try everything again.
       

[VelocityMfg]

Hey all ,




This is CRASH from VELOCITY Mfg,,,,, interesting Topic and brings back Nightmares for us at the shop..; not to interject but here is the skinny,,,,, we tried the Mold route, using various polymers,, aluminum etc,,, the issue you almost invariably will come across is that the Material used in the Molding process has a Shrinking problem over time, usually caused by aging and outgasing of the material being used  ie,,,,,SHRINKING,,,, remember even miniscule tolerance changes from a Live weapon in contrast to a Molded replica of the same firearm is the difference between a perfect fitting Holster and a Not so much version which can be bought from virtually any mass produced manufacture who uses injection molding processes.


Not meaning to Burst any bubbles just saving , hopefully some heartache and hair pulling we have already been through,,


The Differences in a Mass produced Thermoformed /Injection Holsters and a  Properly Handformed  Holsters isnt Mind-boggling,  we just found trying to form around Molds just gave us the "AVERAGE/SUB PAR" and we are aiming for THE BEST,,,,,,,,,,  GOOD luck on your quest,,,,, CRASH




Ps... we can talk about Grips also possibly another day its late and its hot in TEXAS, im headed to Bed,,,,, cant wait to get back home to Chattaroy, WA

[Cheb]

I have seen a method that may work to make a mold on a couple of shows. Its a vacuum process that sucks a  plastic sheet to a table. Mythbusters used it to make a ballistics gel  body. Not sure if it would work for a gun, but if you could find a place that does it. It should be a reasonably priced method of getting a mold of your gun if it would work.

[GhostWarrior]

Thanks both of you for you helpfull suggestions.
 

[b5.5dan]

OMG I know how you feel. Thats how my wife is when my projects don't go the way I want.

One time I was refinishing the wheels for my VW in the tub. Well, the water drained out, leaving the aircraft remover on the porcelain... Yeah... I think I still have the scar somewhere... 

[Angryvikingman]

You can make a homemade vacuum forming table, they're not super complicated. There are instructionals on youtube.Probably the bestway to go there GW. Use a little thicker plastic so its not so prone to deformation from the heat. Then you can make a dual sided mold, clamp it together, and fill with resin. :D

[GhostWarrior]

         Thanks for the idea, I'll see if I can make one. I'm guessing some sort or pre-drilled beaver board you hang tools from? Then some sort of box for underneath with a vacuum cleaner hose size hole it it? Would using a thinker plastic and running a blow driver all over it to soften it some before I hit the vacuum work? Or do we hit diminishing returns at some point? (course the design for the box underneath and then sealing it to the beaver board I'm having trouble visualizing but I bet I can find something at home depot more or less allready mostly what I need)
 

[Angryvikingman]

Yeah, and since you're doing guns, it wont have to be but like 1x1'. You can use a frame that you put in the oven at 100 or so degrees to soften the plastic, then lay it over your suction box and clamp it down, then turn on the vacuum.  Presto! 1/2 of a gun mold!

[b5.5dan]

How well would something like that work for making Kydex Holsters?