Reloads vs Factory Ammo.

[DeeDubya]

Brass is the most expensive component to load a round, especially in large rifle and excepting top shelf bullets like Barnes. However, with good brass (Lapua, etc.) you can get 10 loads out of each case. So before you complete your calculations you must first drop a 0 from the cost of the brass. Now recalculate.
 
I've loaded some pistol brass 20 times before I discarded it (and it still looked OK). Low pressure, straight wall cases are generally good for many rounds before it fails.

[GhostWarrior]

 chfields              I only wonder about what sort of rejection rate you can end up with using once fired mixed? Most likely really doesn’t matter since it is so cheap, but since it's not cleaned (?) that adds a step to the process. No doubt overthinking this like always.
 
DeeDubya          I thought about that also, didn't have a number in mind at the time, and wondered if the whole start up costs are higher than factory, but when spread out over time it amortizes? out and you break even (shipping included or not more or less) after a few reloading session and after than the price drops to the 20 to 40 percent less category.
 
                Also one of the things I didn't quantify is the cost variance between buying 1 LB. bottles of powder as opposed to the 8 LB. ones and then calculating the total grains and using (I think your max choice of grains per round of 5.6?) to divide the number of rounds it's possible to get. Although I going to be only buying 1 LB bottles or less of powder until I find a combination that is accurate and works both more than just myself, After all Craig is in this with me, and I got him to go with the 124 grn FMJ and the 124 HP's (Because I think it's a really bad idea to practice with one weight of bullet and then carry a different one that isn't going to perform the way you think.) So, I/we want to find a load that doesn't beat us up, but is still capable of a consistent tight grouping for both  of us once we get up to speed shooting properly again.
 
               Or am I simply over thinking this yet again? But to sum up; the startup costs are going to be much more than buying factory, but after reloading enough times (which I'm sure we will be doing) the cost drops into the less than factory price and pretty much stays there on avg, even when you finally have to buy replacement brass. About the only actually loose will be in whatever powder (as small as can be found to experiment with) left over from the initial trial and errors, that will have to be destroyed?
 
                 BTW I’m going with the powder you guys mentioned to start with, and looking up combinations for the rounds in a couple of the books I got to read.

[chfields]

If you are talking rejection as far as the brass not being usable, they add extra brass to cover that issue....At least thats what I have read....

I think its better to add a step to the process, rather than pay 3x the price? 

[GhostWarrior]

        Of course, you know I tend to over think things and worry about every detail. It's just the way I am. Sort of OCD especially when it comes to people (me especially or me being the reason someone else) possibly getting hurt. Then add that to being clumsy and it sort of snowballs.   

[Rodolfo Fierro]

So, I/we want to find a load that doesn't beat us up, but is still capable of a consistent tight grouping for both  of us once we get up to speed shooting properly again.
 
BTW I’m going with the powder you guys mentioned to start with, and looking up combinations for the rounds in a couple of the books I got to read.[/font]

I load 4.2gr of Winchester # 231 with the 124gr bullet.  They come out of my 75 BD @ 1020fps.  That only adds up to 285 ft/lb, maybe not what you would like for self defence, but it makes a nice shooting range round.

[chfields]

        Of course, you know I tend to over think things and worry about every detail. It's just the way I am. Sort of OCD especially when it comes to people (me especially or me being the reason someone else) possibly getting hurt. Then add that to being clumsy and it sort of snowballs.   

I know...I'm the same way....always over thinking things....

[DeeDubya]

Like Rudolfo's recipe with WW231, fast powders go a lot farther and are therefore cheaper. I've burned a lot of 231, Bullseye, WAP, etc. over the years and I'm telling you a pound will go a long way. Unless you're shooting a lot of competition, I would hesitate to buy 8lb cannisters just to save a few bucks on the bulk size.

[GhostWarrior]

          Thanks for that advice. And for most of the pistols Calibers I have to load for now, I'll happily buy 1 Lb containers.
             Just out of intrest, how long does powder stay good in it's sealed container? I'm asking because of the ongoing theory/rumours that prices for everything firearms related is going to take a large jump depending on who wins the Election. So I was thinking of having more than I need at one go just in case.
 
            As for the 9mm rounds that I will need to buy in bulk since I now have 9 different 9mm models of the CZ and All the OLD CZ Models that use .25 .32, .380, 9 x18, (Possibly the 7.62 x 25?) and all the 9's.
 
            Speaking of all the Old CZ models, does anyone here at all know of anyone with a C-N-C machine that will make an entire set of matching grips for the collection. I can send the original ones to be scanned. I would like to have all the old ones completely cleaned and what ever needed fixing fixed, than put matching grips on all of them and then take a picture of the entire set, and possibly have it mounted some way. (I wonder what it would cost to have the entire set Bronzed once I have the work done? )

[Rodolfo Fierro]

             Just out of intrest, how long does powder stay good in it's sealed container? I'm asking because of the ongoing theory/rumours that prices for everything firearms related is going to take a large jump depending on who wins the Election. So I was thinking of having more than I need at one go just in case.
 

It is hard to tell how long dry powder last.  I have a rusty old can of Winchester 231 that someone gave me that works just like new.  They put date codes on the can so you can't tell when it was made, or else this can was made in '62.
BTW the Fire Protection Agency recommends that you do not keep more than 20lb in an occupied building. 

[GhostWarrior]

                    Sorry, I thought it said 40 pounds max? and if it's kept on the screened in porch out of direct sunlight and in a 90 min. fire resistant safe I might squeek by since it wouldn't actually be IN an occupided building, and smokeless powder dosen't actually explode if I understand that correctly?

[chfields]

I found this
11-3.7 Smokeless propellants intended for personal use in quantities
not exceeding 20 lb. (9.1 kg) shall be permitted to be stored in original
containers in residences. Quantities exceeding 20 lb. (9.1 kg), but not
exceeding 50 lb. (22.7 kg), shall be permitted to be stored in residences
where kept in a wooden box or cabinet having walls of at least
1 in. (25.4 mm) nominal thickness.

Here is the link where I found the info

[DeeDubya]

             Just out of intrest, how long does powder stay good in it's sealed container? I'm asking because of the ongoing theory/rumours that prices for everything firearms related is going to take a large jump depending on who wins the Election. So I was thinking of having more than I need at one go just in case.
 

It is hard to tell how long dry powder last.  I have a rusty old can of Winchester 231 that someone gave me that works just like new.  They put date codes on the can so you can't tell when it was made, or else this can was made in '62.
BTW the Fire Protection Agency recommends that you do not keep more than 20lb in an occupied building.

It varies with the powder. I've got a 5 pounder of Unique that's approaching 40 years. It's still good. I've had a couple cans of Dupont go bad and the cans actually fell apart when I picked them up. There seems to be a deterioration threshold that once it starts to decay it goes fast. I've read that if you notice a brownish dust rise from the powder when you pour it then it's time to have a bonfire. It's not dangerous to burn smokeless powder in the open air. Just pour it out on some concrete or dirt and light it. It burns rather intensely but not explosively.
 
As far as storage, I store my powder in a metal cabinet in a separate building that is my workshop and reloading room. I'm sure I'm exceeding the 20 lb limit but not the 50 lbs. If it ever catches fire I'll have to warn the fire department about the impending fireworks display.

[Rodolfo Fierro]

I have received old cans of powder that had lumps in the powder.  I spread the powder on the lawn in the rain or turn the hose on it.  However the grass grows great and you have to moe more with this method.

[DeeDubya]

And don't play Croquet with your cigar-smoking uncle until it's watered down. hehe