CZ 2075P vs. Alloy

[mlrssr]

I am currently having FTF issues and have a RAMI P. I am reading where some people have got CZ-USA to replace their P with alloy frames. Should I push for this replacement also? And is the FTF issue a reason that they might offer the replacement? Thanks ahead of time for any help you have.

[GM4469]

They will most likely want  to see it before making such a determination. Failures can be the result of many other things other than the actual firearm. So call them and ask them how to proceed

[-dz-]

I am currently having FTF issues and have a RAMI P. I am reading where some people have got CZ-USA to replace their P with alloy frames. Should I push for this replacement also? And is the FTF issue a reason that they might offer the replacement? Thanks ahead of time for any help you have.

The gun has a five year warranty, so I wouldn't rush into anything. Have you done the feed ramp polishing thing? If not, I'd send it back and let them work on it. Helped mine a great deal. The other thing to keep in mind is replacing at least the outer recoil spring at around 500 or so rounds. Or both, they're like $2 apiece (get a drawer full, cheap insurance). Try different brands of ammo, different weights and tips. I'd go for the easy stuff first, see if that fixes the problem before I changed frames.

My 2 cents.

[GhostWarrior]

         Hi and Welcome to our forum. I talked to CZ-USA a while ago about the RAMI P and basically it came down to yes they had problems with the Polymer but that has been worked out and even if the frame bulges a bit after it heats up, it's only cosmetic and does not affect the pistol in any way. The FTF is not part of the poly frame so just because it's poly I doubt they would replace it. What I do think they will do is ask you to send the pistol to them, and I think they will even send you a prepaid package to ship it in. I presume it will have to come back to you via a gun dealer unless you have your own ffl, and I don't know if you use the same dealer you picked it up from whether they will nick you for another transfer fee or not. there is a 2 digit number in front of the proof mark in front of the serial number on the plate on your slide, would you please look at it and tell us what it is?
 
 
            A couple other things you didn't mention were brought up indirectly by  -dz- which are: What ammo where you using? Brand, Grain, type (IE: SJHP, FMJ, HP, and so on), at what point did the FTF happen? first round? or later? did it happen with every mag you used? Sometimes it could be the mag, did you tap the mag with the palm of your hand before inserting it into the pistol? (What that does is move all the rounds back and evenly, which is important, since they can move a bit in the magazine and one could be forward of the ones on top and or under it and it catches the ramp. How long have you had the weapon? How many rnds more or less have you run through it so far?
 
 
            Please no offense intended here but you also didn't mention how much experience you have with firearms in general so if I'm asking things you already know and tried I'm sorry. But to help anyone resolve any problem with any CZ we need to know as much information as possible so that we don't waste your time going over things you have already tried. We really want to help. but like anything the more information the better.
 

[-dz-]

Actually, if you send it in for repairs they can send it back to you without an FFL. If they change the gun model it needs to go to an FFL, but every time I sen mine in for repairs it came back to me (except the last time when they sent me a different model, that one went to an FFL). I do live it Texas, so I don't know if that's a factor.

Mine used to act up at about 40 rounds. What I found was the ramp polishing helped and changing the springs helped, but right around 40 I'd get a FTF. That didn't bug me too much because you could slap the butt of the gun and you could get the next round off, but the most I ever carried was 27 rounds.

What I did discover if you're at the range, it doesn't hurt to take two guns (or a book) because when it did act up if I set it down for about 15-20 minutes it would generally pump out a couple of magazines without a FTF.

[mlrssr]

I love all the help here from everyone. Glad I found this forum after finally getting my CZ. With that said the gun is an '08. I have shot UMC 180gr FMJ and American Eagle 165gr that they sell at the range. I have had others tell me to try 155gr with a round tip. So I am planning another day soon to try some JHP round tip 155gr and165gr. I have been shooting for a little over a year with a couple of Glocks, a 19 and a 23. But after shooting a CZ 9mm I had to have one so I sold my 19 9mm and then picked up the CZ 2075 RAMI P 40 S&W. So even though the gun isn't new, it is newer to me so I don't know what has been done.  And no offense taken GW, I do understand the questions.  And thanks dz on the return shipping. I would be paying $40 a shot if it goes back to ffl each time. I am in Michigan so I hope it's the same here. As far as magazines I bought a brand new one from CZ as soon as I had the issue thinking maybe weak spring in the magazine. And yes I do feel I tap the magazine and insert it well and seated. I will let you know what happens. Thanks to all again.

[mlrssr]

And I forgot to mention, it will usually have the issue on 3rd or 4th round. Then I may go 5-7 more before another FTF. Sometimes I can just bump the back of the slide and sometimes I have to eject the round.

[b5.5dan]

Let me start by saying that CZs are the FINEST firearms on the planet (in my opinion, of course). I would shoot my 75B against anything else out there.


That said, I had a RAMI P in .40 S&W, and it had feeding issues as well. I really attribute this to the fact that many (most) .40s are basically modified 9mm frames, and since they weren't built up for that caliber, it is problematic. It's been like that in every .40 I have ever owned. Not just CZs. Try to polish the feed ramp, but better still, try to find a "full profile" bullet. The truncated cone was always my problem.


And finally, if the gun is brand new, just shoot it for a while. New guns with tight tolerances can take a few rounds to get going. The RAMI is awesome, and youll get it sorted. Again, welcome to the club!

[newbuckeye]

I have a Rami P in .40sw, and it went back to CZ for a bulge in the frame.  I haven't gotten the replacement yet or even heard what they plan to do, so that is still up in the air.

As has been said before, the feeding problem has nothing to do with the frame.  I have a buddy that is fairly new to shooting pistols, and is left handed.  He had FTF almost every other round with the Rami P and my P-07 (both poly frame pistols).  I can take those same guns, same ammo, same day, and have one FTF in 5 mags.  Some of it has to do with his grip, angle of his arm, how tight his grip, etc.  I haven't been able to tell exactly what it is yet (he lives 2 1/2 hours away).

Something you might try is have someone take a video of you shooting.  Take slow well thought out shots, and have them focus on your hands.  Get good shots of your grip, angle of your arm, your stance, everything.  Then, put it on a big screen and watch it in slow motion.  Have other shooters watch it also, and get their opinions. 

[Rodolfo Fierro]

And I forgot to mention, it will usually have the issue on 3rd or 4th round. Then I may go 5-7 more before another FTF. Sometimes I can just bump the back of the slide and sometimes I have to eject the round.

I had similar failures with a 75BD that I bought used.  It turned out to be the extractor.  Bumping the slide would make the extractor seat in the cartridge groove.  A LITTLE sanding on the corner of the extractor (where first contact is made between the cartridge and the extractor) cured the problem.  Use the finest sandpaper you can find for a smooth finish.